Field Trip: Chefchaouen

This week I visited the town of Chefchaouen, about two hours south of Tangier, Morocco. Once we got out of the large urban center, the landscape turned into mountainous farm country. Both sides of the road were dotted with small farms, most characterized by a one-family home situated on a plot of land with some crops and some grazing animals.

Crops

I saw four predominant crops: olives, hay, corn, and onions. The olive orchards were extensive, stretching across wide hillsides. Hay – some type of wheat-like grass, I wasn’t sure exactly what it was – was grown on most of the farms, in relatively small fields. Corn, too, was grown in relatively small fields on some farms, not in the type of endless expanse we see in the Midwest. Similarly, onions were being grown on small-scale farms, some in plots as small as 20x30 feet. Other crops that I did not see growing in fields but were particularly prominent in local markets were cherries, small plums, and figs.

I saw a lot of hay being harvested during the drives to and from Chefchaouen, and my friend explained why: in November, there is a festival called Eid Al-Kabir in which nearly every household slaughters a ram. With just four months to go, everyone is trying to fatten up their sheep as much as possible, thus the need for lots of hay.

Animals for Food and Transport

Animals are an important part of agriculture in Morocco, and most farms I saw had both crops and livestock. I saw sheep, cows, and goats grazing on hillsides and in farm fields alongside crops. Some farms had a herd of just one type of animal, but many had a mixture: one or two cows and small herds of sheep and goats. Many farms had chickens roaming freely as well. All four types of meat are popular in Morocco, especially beef and chicken. Cows are important for milk production, as are chickens for eggs; sheep hides are used for decoration and warmth in homes.

Much of the meat eaten in this area is raised and slaughtered locally. On the way back to Tangier, were stopped at a restaurant in a small town for lunch. There was a butcher shop connected to it, and a young man was in the process of delivering a dozen whole ram carcasses. He wore a white smock and carried them in two by two, slung over his shoulder, while my companions ate roasted mutton and grilled ground beef. I asked the butcher if the sheep were coming from this area. He said yes, from the mountains, and pointed to the slopes visible out the front door of the restaurant.

Animals are not just raised for meat. Nearly every farm I saw had a donkey, and they are even used to transport goods in smaller cities where the streets are too small for motorized vehicles. They carry everything from bundles of hay to propane tanks to crates of orange juice bottles to small children. I also saw donkeys used for threshing grain – three animals tied together were walked in a circle on a large pile of grain stalks.

Mechanization

The majority of the farms I saw were using primarily human and animal labor to harvest grain and other crops. On some farms, men, women and children were harvesting by hand with large knives and piling the grass onto donkeys. On one larger farm, a combine was driving up and down the field harvesting grain. I mostly saw threshing of grain with fuel-powered threshers, but I did see one team of donkeys, too. I saw mechanized hay balers on multiple farms as well. Based on the gernerally low level of mechanization on many farms and the small number of farm machines I saw, I assume that in most cases the farmers do not own the balers or threshers, but hire them when needed. 

Markets in Chefchaouen

I noticed two basic types of produce vendors in the city of Chefchaouen. One type was a vendor offering at least ten types of fruits and vegetables, from a combination of local, regional, and international sources. These included things like peaches and nectarines, bananas, apples, oranges, pears, avocados, tomatoes, and peppers. These types of vendors displayed their produce in crates, and some of the fruit even had stickers on it.

 The second type of vendor was characterized by a smaller selection – one to six types of produce, less inventory, and a specific set of local, seasonal items. This included small green plums, cherries, figs (lots!), cucumbers, zucchini, onions, herbs, milk, and olive oil. 

Vendors rarely sold more than four or five types, and sometimes displayed just one small buckets of figs. They were situated in the narrow streets in the old part of the city, rather than in one of the market plazas, and often sat on blankets on the ground or on small stools.

 

Conclusion

Much of the agriculture in the mountainous region near Tangier takes place on small family farms that have a mixture of crops, especially hay, corn, olives, vegetables, and tree fruits, and livestock, including cows, sheep, and goats. Much of the meat, milk, and fresh produce is consumed locally and varies with the season. Much farm work is done by hand or with the aid of donkeys, although some farms employ machinery for harvesting, baling, and threshing.

Seaonality Apparent

The seasonality of fruit is evident here in a way it is not in American supermarkets, where apples, oranges, pineapples, and strawberries are available year-round, albeit in mediocre quality. When I first arrived in Morocco in late February, strawberries were literally everywhere, spilling out of crates in market stands and piled in wheelbarrows for less than 50¢ a pound. Oranges, too, were cheap and easy to find. 

Oranges were everywhere in late winter

  Over the next few weeks, various types of fruit appeared and disappeared: cherimoyas from March to May, cactus fruits for a few brief weeks in April, and a strange apricot-like type from March to April. Melons arrived in late April, followed soon after by the first stone fruits: cherries and tiny plums. In mid-May, we started to see apricots, peaches, and nectarines. Last week, in early June, fresh figs arrived! The green ones came first, followed a few days later by black ones.

Cactus fruits made a brief appearance in April

 Prices changed to reflect limited supply and high demand: the first cherries I saw in the market were 27 dirham (about $3.25) per kilo, the next day they dropped to 15 dirham and stayed at that price for the next few weeks. Similarly, strawberries were 10 dirham per kilo for weeks, but crept up to 12 and 14 dirham per kilo near the end of the season. Interestingly, the prices then dropped to 8 for the rare crate I did see - it seemed that no one wanted out of season strawberries.

A mysterious apricot-like spring fruit

 After seeing the changes in the fruit available in the markets, I realized that I had only vague ideas of what is in season when in my state, Minnesota. I did some reading and was surprised to learn how much we can grow. In the spring, mostly salad greens and some early vegetables, such as cauliflower, peas, potatoes, radishes, asparagus, sprouts, and rhubarb are in, many lasting into June, July, and August. We have a huge range of vegetables available in the summer, everything from bell peppers to sweet corn, beans, tomatoes, summer squash, eggplant, Brussels sprouts, celery, carrots, and cucumber. Minnesota produces a surprising amount of fruit as well, including apples, berries, melons, grapes, and plums.

Melons appeared in late April and early May

We can find lots of these same vegetables and fruits in early fall, and as the cold weather begins, we get winter squash, pumpkins, and more apples! While not much is growing during the winter, fruits and vegetables that store well, such as winter squash, apples, potatoes, turnips, beets, carrots, onions, and garlic are available.  

Delicious nectarines in late spring

 Of course, in Minnesota, we import much of our fresh produce. Avocados, bananas, and lemons are always in season somewhere, and thus always available. In the spring, cherimoyas, apricots, citrus, and mango appear. In the summer, berries, peaches and nectarines, pears, and melons from other parts of the country proliferate.  In the fall, we get persimmons, pomegranate, quince, passion fruit, guava, and grapes, giving way to dates, kiwis, chestnuts, clementines, tangerines, oranges, and papaya in the winter.

Figs in the first few days of June

 Why does seasonality matter? Many people will tell you that fruits and vegetables in season taste better. When fruit needs to be shipped long distances, it often loses flavor as well as nutrients. Buying in season also lets you buy local, which often, but not always, means less energy used for transportation. Finally, it offers a different kind of connection to food, one that is lost in our sterile, brightly lit supermarkets. It reminds us of the changes in the seasons and the rhythms of place, creating a deeper sense of belonging to that place. I never feel more Minnesotan than when I'm eating sweet corn in late July, or biting into a crisp Haralson apple on an equally crisp October day, or roasting local squash on a cold December evening. Local, in season fruits and vegetables are one of the things I'm looking forward to most when I head back to the States in a few months.

Local squash from the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum

Types of Markets

Tangier, a city of over one million people, is served by many different types of food shops and markets. Based on my observations over the past three months, they fall into about a dozen categories.
 

Super Markets

Super markets are quickly becoming the norm for food purchases in the developing world. In Tangier, western-style grocery stores stock a wide variety of fresh and processed foods, imported brands, and household and cleaning needs. Most have similar layouts to American chains, with sections for fresh produce, milk, meat and fish, bakery, deli, dry goods, and household supplies. The sizes vary: some independent neighborhood grocery stores are relatively small, some Wal-Mart style super markets located on the outskirts of the city are massive and offer consumer goods such as electronics and sports equipment in addition to groceries. Regardless of the size, all stores of this type are characterized by a formal price system, shopping carts and cashier lanes, and Western-style layouts with tile floors and bright lighting. However, many other types of shops and markets persist.

 

Alimentation General

Alimentation General translates to “general food store.” These shops, found in every neighborhood, are the go-to places for basic daily needs. They are relatively small and carry mostly dry and canned goods, some processed and snack foods, oil, milk, fresh bread, eggs, cheese, juice, usually some fresh fruits and vegetables. They also have things like laundry detergent, dish soap, and shampoo. They are usually less expensive than the supermarkets.

 

Central Covered Market

The large central market offers fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, fish, eggs, cheese, and olives. There are dozens of vendors within a large building, and each vendor usually offers a specific type of product: either fruit or vegetables, olives, chicken and eggs, or beef. Cheese is mostly sold by individual women with small informal stands within the market. Produce and meet are usually less expensive than the supermarket, but not always.

 

 

Street Vendors

In addition to the central market, fresh local fruit, vegetables, and cheese are also sold in less formal street stands, either on wheeled tables, blankets, or out of vans or trucks. These vendors are always less expensive than the supermarket and usually less expensive than the central covered market as well.

Fruit sec

Known as fruit sec, which means “dried fruit” in French, these small shops and stands sell  mostly processed snack foods, chips, candy, and cookies, as well as nuts and dried fruit. Most items cost less than a dollar, and for 10-25¢ you can buy a small scoop of nuts or sunflower seeds wrapped in a paper cone. You can find one on nearly every street, and on the busy main boulevard, most blocks have two or three.

Laiterie/Milbana/Cremerie

These types of shops, known as a laiteries or cremeries (literally milk store or creamery) in French and a milbanas in Moroccan Arabic, sell a variety of quick, inexpensive, on the go meals and snacks. The most common  offerings are sandwiches made with traditional Moroccan breads – hobz makalah, harcha, or erghraygef – filled with fresh cheese, butter, hard-boiled eggs, mortadella, olive oil, or nut butters. These types of sandwiches usually cost between 5 dirham (about 60¢) and 15 dirham. They also sometimes offer fresh juices and pastries, and some have processed snacks and bottled juices as well.

 

Sandwich Shops

Somewhat similar to the Laiteries, sandwich shops sell quick meals and snacks, mostly sandwiches made with eggs, chicken, liver, shrimp or beef, topped with vegetables and French fries. Prices ranges from 10 dirham (about $1.20) to 30 dirham.

 They are very popular and quite tasty.

Bakery/Patisserie

There are many bakeries in Tangier, offering fresh bread, cakes, cookies, and pastries. They are multiple types - the largest kind is a western-style store with at least a dozen varieties of fresh bread, both Moroccan styles and French styles like baguettes. They will also offer many kind of cookies and pastries. They vary in price but tend to be a little more expensive. 

A second type of bakery is the small street stand. These specialize in griddle-cooked Moroccan breads such as erghaygef and harcha, and usually offer honey, cheese, nut butters, and olive oil as accompaniments for a quick snack. Some offer soups or simple fish dishes as well, which can be eaten while standing there or wrapped up to go. 

A third type of patisserie specializes in the popular deep-fried treats that are popular here. They usually have some baked cookies as well, but the focus is the huge platters of golden-brown swirls of dough, fried and then soaked in a sugar-honey syrup.

Butchers

In some of the more residential areas, you can find stand-alone butcher shops not connected to a larger market. These tend to sell either beef or chicken, usually not both. Many also sell lamb or mutton. They often sell fresh vegetables too, making them easy stops for all the ingredients needed for home cooking.

Most of the meat arrives in large pieces – whole sides of beef are delivered to the shop and displayed, being cut and wrapped in paper as the customer purchases it rather than pre-cut and displayed in plastic wrap. Chickens are often sold whole, although you can easily find smaller pieces.

  

As pigs are haram - prohibited in Islam - it is almost impossible to find fresh pork, although you can find processed ham at import grocery stores.

 

Specialty vendors – in addition to stores selling many types of food, there are stands and shops that sell just specific items, such as dates or spices. These are mostly found in the market district of the old city.

 

In addition to these types of markets and snack shops, there are hundreds of simple cafés, serving little other than tea and coffee, upscale cafés with full menus, and a wide range of sit-down restaurants.