Chicken is very popular in Tangier, both at restaurants and in home cooking. Above is cous cous, a traditional Morocco dish of semolina, vegetables and chicken with a sweet spiced onion relish. |
This week I observed a
small shop selling freshly slaughtered, plucked, and cleaned chickens directly
to consumers. I’ve seen many of these in the older, more residential areas of
the city, and this one was located in a bustling, very non-touristy
neighborhood, much more traditional than the center city area where I live. It
was a small space, about 15ft by 20ft, with an enclosed area in the front where
approximately twenty live chickens sat calmly. It was squeezed between another
chicken shop and a row of vegetables stands on a small, windy market street. I
wanted to take a picture, but my Moroccan friend advised against it, saying it
would attract a lot of attention and might be considered rude.
As I watched,
customers approached the shop and asked for chickens of various sizes. The man
working in front would choose a chicken and weigh it, then hold it by the wings
with one hand in a position that kept it relatively immobilized. In full view
of the customers, he would make a quick cut across the throat with a sharp
blade, then place the body upside-down in a plastic cone to drain the blood.
After a few minutes, the carcass was placed briefly in boiling water, then into
a small machine, a 3’ by 3’ box with a circular opening. This machine appeared
to remove most of the feathers; the rest of the feathers and the skin were
removed by hand by the second man working in a shop. On a large counter, also
in full view of the customer, he pulled off the skin, eviscerated the chicken,
and cut it into pieces as specified by the customer. It was then wrapped up and
handed to the buyer in a plastic bag. The price for a medium-sized chicken was
47 dirhams, about $6.
You can also buy
cleaned whole chickens and pieces in the large fresh produce and meat market in
the center of the city and from small butcher shops in residential
neighborhoods, for about the same price, and from supermarkets, which are
slightly more expensive. I would like to find out more about where chicken is
sourced for restaurants, especially the larger chain restaurants. For some of
the small shops, it would be feasible to meet all their needs with this type of
local, urban supply chain. I imagine that larger restaurants look to more
industrial suppliers that bring in slaughtered, cleaned, and pre-cut chickens
from outside the city – I saw some large, highly concentrated chicken farms on
a drive between Tangier and Rabat. There are also even larger chains, like
McDonald’s, which sells hundreds, if not thousands of servings of chicken
nuggets per day. I would be curious to know where their chicken comes from –
Tangier? Morocco? Imports?
No matter where it
comes from, chicken is a popular part of Moroccan cuisine, and it will be
interesting to see how demand will be met as populations, incomes, and
consumption rise.
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